Tremec tko 600 installation

While you may remove this donut, it is not necessary. It will simply slide forward on the shaft when the slip-yoke is installed. If you do remove the donut, use extreme caution to avoid damaging the rear seal. The slip-yoke must be able to stroke freely on the transmission output shaft without bottoming out while maintaining maximum spline contact. Therefore, proper driveshaft length is critical. Proper mount height and crossmember location are very important to maintain the correct driveline angle.

Shifters The transmission will accommodate several applications by using any one of the eight available shifter locations. All of these shifters are available from Modern DriveLine Using an aftermarket shifter may void your warranty.

If an aftermarket shifter is used, remove the shift stops. When installing the upper shift lever, be sure to use a rubber isolator to reduce driveline noise.

Electronic connectors There are three electronic connectors on the TKO transmission 1 neutral start switch, 2 Back-up light sensor, and 3 speedometer pick-up.

The neutral safety switch can be used to prevent the car from being started while in gear. The pigtail located on the rear of the transmission is an open circuit until the transmission is placed in neutral. The pigtail uses a standard Ford connector. The back-up light sensor is on the driver side of the transmission case and is an open circuit until the transmission is shifted into reverse.

The electronic speedometer pick-up is located on the rear-extension passenger side. You must use a Ford T-5 speedometer cable end. Note: If you are using the electronic pick-up, you must plug the hole for the mechanical speedometer with a metal plug, part X available from Modern DriveLine.

To prevent oil leaks. Do not use the black rubber shipping plug. Maintenance Recommended oil change intervals should be based on specific usage.

Excessive heat will cause most fluids to breakdown and ultimately cause damage to the transmission. Driving Techniques A mile break-in period will prevent premature wear and possible damage to the transmission. During the break-in period, you must avoid high RPM shifts and drag starts.

The clutch must be fully disengaged to shift the transmission. Do not use excessive force when shifting the transmission. If you experience clash shifts grinding , check the travel of the clutch to ensure a proper air-gap is achieved see above.

Do not hold the transmission in gear by applying force on the shifter. This will damage the pads on the shift forks and may result in significant damage to the transmission. Warranty From Manufacturer: This product is warranted 90 days from the date of purchase. I have a Keisler perfect fit TKO. No Spacer needed and the stock style shifter lines up with the hole. Silver Sport Trans. Mine required a new drive shaft and likely you will too. I recommend buying the upgraded perfect fit TKO from Liberties if its available.

Thanks for the info Alan. I price Silver Sport and they were quite a bit higher priced than most of the other dealers. I think he said I would have to buy a spacer plate because Tremec was behind production of the short input shafts. I was leaning towards the short input shaft transmission because AMP Performance told me I wouldn't need to shorten my drive shaft. It sounds like that was bad info.

Did you have good tunnel clearance? My motor mounts are TCP stock height. I used the Keisler trans support, which is a very strong piece. I have very good tunnel clearance with the upper support rail notched. I fail to understand why people have an issue with notching the upper support since its easy to do, and poses no structural integrity problem when using a strong trans mounting support. This is the easy way to achieve the correct drive shaft angle.

I won't modify my floor support because it will ruin the already finished surfaces and weaken the floor support. In my mind, a proper conversion should fit without hacking anything on the car. Changing motor and trans mounts and building anew driveshaft are fine, but cutting the car is a gam-changer floor support or shifter hole. Just how I roll. Not needed, but something to consider. They do surface hardening treatments, and also do something with the synchros that make it shift at high power and high RPM.

A stock TKO is not supposed to be shifted above I have read people noticing shifting problems as low as rpm. These are hard, power shifts of course. I shift mine at and have no issues, Accidentally ran it up to once and Mine shifted fine, but I have a mild built I have purchased the one year only Cobra R aluminum bellhousing which accepts the standard input shaft and no need for a spacer.

I also purchased the McLeod shifter lever which locates the shifter 1inch rearward and 1inch to the left to center it in the hole. I haven't purchased the trans yet. Just gathering up all the necessary components to do the swap. I checked with American powertrain and got conflicting information and eventually was recommended to Bruce at Modern Driveline.

Thanks John. I did talk to Paul at MDL and he sent out a few price quotes. AMP Performance in Phoenix, Arizona was the first dealer that said I didn't need a spacer plate because their trans has the short input shaft.

Then he tells me I won't need to shorten my drive shaft. He also said their shifter would fit right through my stock shifter opening and I wouldn't have to cut the tunnel. I like everything he said. I also checked out a few other dealers, but MDL seamed like one of the best.

I do like the idea of not using a spacer plate. I dialed in my Lakewood scatter shield and if I add a spacer to it, what's that going to do to my alignment? To me, the least amount of parts, the better the conversion. Not yet. I had time before needing to making a purchase and the guys at Modern recommended I wait and work on other things until they had all the details worked out on their case mods.

At least one other member of this board did the same thing and had to modify absolutely nothing to make his MDL TKO fit his I will be doing the exact same conversion with the MDL case mods so no cutting or modifying will be required.

Worth the wait in my opinion. A TKO case modification for additional vertical clearance would be great, if it doesn't cause case structural problems.

Let us know how it works out for you. I am using the stock clutch linkage set up. I did but a new Ram, long style clutch plate and 26 spline disc. The engine has an older Lakewood scatter shield. I had thought about installing a hydraulic system, but I don't mind what Ford built and this car won't be driven too often. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead.

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